Somehow, this red wine has fallen from grace. And why is that, since it’s soft, gentle and enjoyable to drink? It doesn’t require cerebral discussions to appreciate it, and its attributes assure that it will seldom be astringent or overly tannic. As such, it’s an ideal wine for aspiring wine enthusiasts starting their journey into the savory delights of red wines. On the other hand, this wine is also favored by savvy wine consumers who seek a wine that has a reliable character, and one that pairs readily with a wide variety of meat and poultry recipes.
With one notable French exception, it typically makes no pretense or leap toward greatness. What you see and sniff is what you get, and “smooth” is the best adjective that describes it. As one friend said, “It tastes like a red wine should .” It hints at black fruit flavors and aromatics, and occasional smoky, toasty nuances. That profile is why it became the red wine of choice in the early 1990’s when the TV newsmagazine 60 Minutes announced red wine as the key variable in the French Paradox—why in spite of their seemingly unhealthy diet, the French seemed to have fewer cardiac issues than beer drinking, Cola-loving Americans.
Wines geeks know I speak of Merlot, the wine of choice for many years until most recently, when many consumers changed to Pinot Noir. Notwithstanding that, Merlot remains the primary grape underlying most wines produced in the Bordeaux appellations of Pomerol and St. Emilion. With their concentrated, fruit forward, low tannic profiles, these regions have been for years red hot, international best sellers. At release date, the finer ones sell in the three-digit range and become more costly as supplies diminish. Chateau Ptrus, one of the world’s most coveted wines is primarily, if not totally, made from Merlot. According to one Internet site, the 2000 Ptrus is currently fetching up to $5000 per bottle—yep, per bottle!
In addition to its Right Bank supremacy, Merlot is the primary blending grape used to counterbalance the harshness of the Cabernet Sauvignon in most Left Bank Grand Crus, and, as such, without Merlot, the fame of Bordeaux would be alternately defined. In the New World models, Merlot is typically made as a stand alone, varietally labeled wine, and is available from as low as $10 to $90 or more per bottle. And the good news is that there are numerous, attractive wines from well-known producers in the $12 to $20 range. Your local retailer should be able to advise what style and price is just right for you.
– Tom Barras