It’s that time of year. Short, cool days followed by long, even cooler, nights. My body is aching and I’m wondering if that glucosamine will ever kick in. In absence of that, I’ll just have to invoke my reliable, Old World remedy and pour a few extra ounces of one of my favorite reds at dinnertime. And, of course, I have numerous options to consider. There’s the ubiquitous, full-bodied choice of just about everyone: Cabernet Sauvignon. This is trailed by the mellow crowd pleaser Merlot. Then there’s the ever popular, jammy Zinfandel. And close in pursuit are the American Pinot Noirs and Syrahs. All are workable choices. But as I occasionally do, I’m gazing beyond our mainland borders, to the land of gazpacho, paella, and manchego cheese, where overconfident bulls should know better than to charge at sword-brandishing men wrapped in stylish, velvet tights.
You guessed it—Spain—the nation where some writers assert wine growing was in full bloom long before the wine-savvy Romans started their imperial march north. When I first started to explore Spanish wines, Rioja was the premier wine region in Spain. In the last several years the powerful and intense wines of Ribera Del Duero and Priorat, and a few others, have challenged that primacy. But I’m still partial to the Bordeaux-like elegance of Riojas. They never seem to fail me, or my dinner guests for that matter.
Spain has an appellation (and bottle labeling) system similar to other European countries. That is, the region’s name appears on the label rather than grape varieties from which it is made. However, if I tell you that the main grape in Rioja red wine is Tempranillo, and is frequently blended with Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano, I hope you won’t get xenophobic and not give Rioja an appearance or two on your dinner table.
In ascending order of price and quality, there are three levels of red wine: Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. While all are drink-worthy, I’m focusing on Reservas, those polished, user-friendly, elegant ones that make cool winter nights seem like spring. They’re well balanced, silky, and appealingly aromatic and will work well with roast beef, lamb, or chicken, as well numerous other dishes calling for medium-to-full bodied red wines. Additionally, no cellaring is required, because all the barrel and bottle aging that’s required is achieved prior to release.
Some of the producers that I’ve enjoyed over the years are Muga, Murrieta, Remelluri, Riscal, Montecillo, and Rioja Alta. And at prices from $15 to $20+ per bottle their biggest selling points are their immediate drink ability, and they deliver a level of quality far in excess of their price tag. No bull, could those considerate Spaniards make it any easier for us?
– Tom Barras