“You ARE kidding me, aren’t you?” my wife said as she stared incredulously at the glass that I was using to drink my red wine. It was a squat, thick lipped, tumbler that I occasionally use for drinking water and fruit juices. “You of all people!” she added for additional taunt. “We’ve got nice crystal stemware, and you’re drinking from that . . . that thing?”

Sure enough, that’s what I was doing. It was dinnertime and I was drinking wine from a stubby, glass that was built to survive even the worst that the Terminator could inflict. Actually, the glass seems ideal for sipping Pastis, that milky white (when water is added), anise flavored liquor that the French call the “milk of Provence.” In his best selling book, Toujours Provence, Peter Mayle asserts that to enjoy Pastis, ambiance is the key ingredient, “which dictates how and where it should be drunk.” He says that it can’t be drunk in a hurry. It can’t be drunk in New York or England or “anywhere that requires its customers to wear socks. It wouldn’t taste the same. It has to be in Provence.” And although he doesn’t mention it, I suspect the right glass—a non-descript tumbler—is also one of the vital components. Anything more refined, like crystal or quality stemware, just wouldn’t do the deed.

Similarly, my wife requires a specific cup and saucer in order to properly enjoy her breakfast caffeine boost. It has to be thin-rimmed and of delicate construction. She claims the coffee is not as enjoyable and tastes completely different in anything else but fine china. Of course, I suspect the morning ambiance is given a substantial boost when she’s stirred and gently awakened by the enticing aromas of ready-to-drink, Columbian Supremo that wafts into the bedroom, courtesy of you know who.

Also, if you’re into super-premium wines, then you might also be into Riedel wine glasses from Austria. If not, be advised that they have produced a highly successful line of connoisseur wine stemware that are specifically designed to deliver the heights of drinking pleasure for each of the most popular red and white varietals. That’s correct, one individual and distinct shape for each grape varietal. Ambience, it appears, can at times make special demands of us.

But “peasant food, “as I refer to it, was one of the key players in our dinnertime ambiance: leftover stew I discovered lurking behind several Tupperwares in the corner of our freezer. Also, we had a half empty bottle of a so-so Pinot Noir sulking quietly in the food compartment door of our Sub-Zero refrigerator. It was, without a doubt, the perfect, elemental match of two underachievers who would come together to deliver their last best shot. They were destined for the other. And, as such, the moment demanded something without the breeding of a Riedel, or even the workman-like reliability of our anonymous daily drinker stemware. No, it required the perfect partner—that ordinary, undistinguished, squat little tumbler.

– Tom Barras

www.TomBarrasWineCommentary.blogspot.com/

A buddy of mine says he likes his red wines “in the style of Jennifer Lopez.” You know, what you see and sniff is what you get with this colorful, grapey and juicy quaff. Overtly fruity and vibrant, with no tannic edges, this extroverted, purple, mouth watering gem is made for immediate enjoyment. Age it in your wine cellar for later drinking? Heck no, guzzle it today, and enjoy it with simple, food—ribs, burgers, sausages, basic pasta. Serve it in tumblers or Styrofoam cups, and nobody will bat an eye. Subtleties and nuances are not part of this all time Bistro favorite. Everything is up front, right where it belongs. There are no cerebral discussions needed to appreciate this hedonistic package of pleasure.

“Gimme a Catherine Zeta-Jones Red any day,” spouts another friend of mine. Maturity, refinement, and elegance are the hallmarks of his style of red wine. Approachable and certainly enjoyable right now, this well structured, elegant Cru delivers complex, voluptuous flavors of blackcurrant, cedar and tobacco. But this world class claret, with well balanced fruit and tannins, needs a little time and understanding to soften and reveal its long term promises. When the time comes, you must pay attention because the messages are soft, gentle, and nuance-laden. Satisfying throughout its long life, this very special red wine requires the right food, the right glass, and the right crowd. Snobby? Some would say so. Ah, but for those who know…

And yet another friend insists that the “Julia Roberts Red” is the only way to go. While frequently described as a “feminine” style of wine, many men have been known to knock themselves out pursuing it elusive charms. A “sweetie,” but not in the sugar sense, this aromatic beauty offers a nifty middle ground to the two wines mentioned above. This Pretty Woman is outgoing, fragrant, and smooth tasting from the get-go. Offering more serious flavors, structure, and longevity than J-Lo, it doesn’t require Zeta-Jones’ long term commitment before you understand what it’s all about. And while it is known for its immediate, tannin-free red berry appeal, this is not a one night stand drink. Though sometimes elusive and occasionally confounding, this is the wine that you will keep going back to week after week and year after year.

So, what’s the point of all that anthropomorphic word play? Well, first of all, I’ve described three types of red wine. Each made from different grapes. With each style providing its own brand of pleasure. Recognize them? I’m suggesting, not so subtly, there’s variety out there. There are many reds and numerous whites that should be explored and enjoyed. If you’re willing to learn the major grape varieties, and their flavor profile (taste characteristics), plus a few wine vocabulary basics (wine’s structural aspects), then you’re well on your way to knowing what’s in your glass, and more importantly, why you like it.

– Tom Barras

www.TomBarrasWineCommentary.blogspot.com/

The purpose of wine tasting is to assess its various properties—its appearance, aromas, flavors, and overall structure. That is, to determine what’s it’s all about, if it’s well made and, most importantly, if it’s appealing, and why. And, pretense has nothing to do with it, though some may think so. So, let’s review the steps involved in tasting: See, swirl, sniff, sip, swallow, and savor.

Color is a leading indicator of a wine’s condition, and the goal in the “see step” is to get an inkling of that. If you see brown, there’s trouble ahead. White wines darken when something is wrong or if they’re over the hill, and reds, as they age, lose their color and develop a brownish tinge. For the professional critics there’s much more to be gleaned from the nuances of color, but for the rest of us, just be sure it’s bright and clear.

Swirling, the next step, is a must. It unleashes all those pleasing aromas. If you’re insecure about swirling, practice the motion with some water. A couple swirls will do, this is not a centrifugal force test.

Next, take a couple quick sniffs. No long inhalations, otherwise you’ll fatigue your nasal receptors. So, what do you detect? Wine, you say? But if you detect other goodies like flowers, fruits, herbs, or spices, then you’re closing in on wine descriptors—the terms tasters use to characterize particular grape varieties. Hint: each grape variety has its own unique aromas, and with a little practice, you will quickly learn to distinguish the more popular varietals.

Now take a generous sip. Roll it around to all parts of your tongue. Savor it Some people close their eyes to eliminate visual distractions. Others suck air in over their tongue (think hot soup) to propel aromas into the back of their mouth and into their nasal passages. The point is to go slow and get your taste buds and receptors working. Now swallow and think about it. So, what do you taste? Still wine, eh? But just like in the “sniff step,” if you taste something that mirrors those wine descriptors mentioned above, then you’re well on your way to being a journeyman wine geek.

So, you’ve looked at it, sniffed it, tasted it; now it’s time to opine. Did you like the color, flavor, and aroma? Did it taste too dry, or do you prefer it sweeter? Was that white crisp and lively? And that red, was it fruity and smooth, or coarse and tannic? Would you buy it? And can you tell someone, anyone, why?

– Tom Barras

www.TomBarrasWineCommentary.blogspot.com/

Somehow, this red wine has fallen from grace. And why is that, since it’s soft, gentle and enjoyable to drink? It doesn’t require cerebral discussions to appreciate it, and its attributes assure that it will seldom be astringent or overly tannic. As such, it’s an ideal wine for aspiring wine enthusiasts starting their journey into the savory delights of red wines. On the other hand, this wine is also favored by savvy wine consumers who seek a wine that has a reliable character, and one that pairs readily with a wide variety of meat and poultry recipes.

With one notable French exception, it typically makes no pretense or leap toward greatness. What you see and sniff is what you get, and “smooth” is the best adjective that describes it. As one friend said, “It tastes like a red wine should .” It hints at black fruit flavors and aromatics, and occasional smoky, toasty nuances. That profile is why it became the red wine of choice in the early 1990’s when the TV newsmagazine 60 Minutes announced red wine as the key variable in the French Paradox—why in spite of their seemingly unhealthy diet, the French seemed to have fewer cardiac issues than beer drinking, Cola-loving Americans.

Wines geeks know I speak of Merlot, the wine of choice for many years until most recently, when many consumers changed to Pinot Noir. Notwithstanding that, Merlot remains the primary grape underlying most wines produced in the Bordeaux appellations of Pomerol and St. Emilion. With their concentrated, fruit forward, low tannic profiles, these regions have been for years red hot, international best sellers. At release date, the finer ones sell in the three-digit range and become more costly as supplies diminish. Chateau Ptrus, one of the world’s most coveted wines is primarily, if not totally, made from Merlot. According to one Internet site, the 2000 Ptrus is currently fetching up to $5000 per bottle—yep, per bottle!

In addition to its Right Bank supremacy, Merlot is the primary blending grape used to counterbalance the harshness of the Cabernet Sauvignon in most Left Bank Grand Crus, and, as such, without Merlot, the fame of Bordeaux would be alternately defined. In the New World models, Merlot is typically made as a stand alone, varietally labeled wine, and is available from as low as $10 to $90 or more per bottle. And the good news is that there are numerous, attractive wines from well-known producers in the $12 to $20 range. Your local retailer should be able to advise what style and price is just right for you.

– Tom Barras

www.TomBarrasWineCommentary.blogspot.com/

The first piece of advice I received when I decided to explore the mysteries of Bacchus’ blessing came from a friend that I thought knew something about wine. I asked for his counsel on how to proceed into that somewhat intimidating world of swirl, sniff, and sip. He caught my ear with the following seduction: “Tom, it’s as simple as ABC.”

Wow, I could hardly wait for the details! I was salivating at the simplicity of it all. I would be an overnight wine guy. The ladies would adore me, my friends would be envious, and wine stewards and retail wine clerks would respect me. This was great stuff!

He leaned forward, looked around to see if anyone else was listening, and whispered into my ear in a hushed, almost religious tone, “Always buy Cabernet. Always buy Chardonnay.”

“Yes, yes,” I said, anxiously waiting for further formulaic insight that would deliver me from doubt and indecision, “What’s the rest of it?”

“That’s it,” he said, somewhat irked at my insinuation. “That’s the ABC’s of Wine. You don’t have to know anything else. One’s red and one’s white. One goes with meat, the other goes with fish. They’re the most popular. Everyone sells Cabernet, and Chardonnay, and everyone who’s with it buys Cabernet and Chardonnay.”

To a large extent, my friend was correct. Just walk into any retail liquor/wine store and examine the shelf space occupied by those two wines — they dominate. And the next time you order wine in a restaurant, just take note of the number of Cabernets and Chardonnays on the wine list — they prevail. One goes with meat (but not all meat dishes), and one goes with fish (but not all fish dishes). No doubt, those two wines are the most popular wines for most wine drinkers.

Of course, I really wanted to be with it, so I tried his approach for a while. I became somewhat confident at ordering, and I even became knowledgeable about their underlying characteristics. But popularity and simplicity did not do it for me. I was not satisfied with the narrowness of my friend’s recommendation. There had to be an additional perspective. So I approached another friend and solicited his counsel. I told him I wanted to enter the kingdom of cork dorks and serious wine geeks.

He leaned forward and solemnly uttered the following: “It’s as simple as ABC, Tom.”

“No, no thanks,” I said, “I’ve already been down that narrow wine road. There’s got to be more to it than just Cabernet and Chardonnay.”

“Precisely, my little cork puller, the real ABC’s of Wine are as follows: Avoid buying Chardonnay and Avoid buying Cabernet. I don’t mean forever, I mean just don’t buy those two wines all the time.” Now we’re getting somewhere.

– Tom Barras

www.TomBarrasWineCommentary.blogspot.com/

Robert M. Parker describes it best: “. . . narrow, winding roads, sleepy valleys, photogenic hillsides . . . quaint old villages . . . enchanted mountainsides . . . one of France’s two most beautiful viticultural regions.” But Rudolph Chelminski, author of I’ll Drink To That who fleshes out the details—geological, historical, political, cultural, gastronomical—including crucial historical personalities like the 14th Century Philippe the Bold and the 20th Century Marketing Wizard, Georges Duboeuf.

Wine enthusiasts with a curiosity for the story behind a wine, will recognize those teases as pointing directly at Beaujolais, that bucolic, thirty-four mile long region in east-central France between Macon and Lyon. Philippe the Bold banished the Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc grape from his Duchy, the northernmost area of Burgundy now known as the Cote d’Or. Duboeuf, the marketing genius behind Nouveau Beaujolais, is the dominant producer/negociant in Beaujolais, the southernmost section of Burgundy. (The Cote d’Or remains home to Pinot Noir, while the exiled Gamay found its ideal terroir south in Beaujolais.)

Like most French wines, Beaujolais is a wine—and a region. And much like Bordeaux, which includes Pauillac, Margaux, St. Julien and other appellations, so too does Beaujolais have its own sub-appellations. Ascending the structure and complexity ladder, they are Beaujolais (where Nouveau is made), Beaujolais-Villages and the Ten Beaujolais Crus (crews). While the first two produce juicy, low tannin quaffs, it is with the Crus—virtually unknown in America—where complex wines of substance and character are to be found. They are as follows: Brouilly, Régnié, Côte-de-Brouilly, Chiroubles, Saint Amour, Fleurie, Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent, with the last two being the most structured and age-worthy. Also, inasmuch as each Cru has earned its own appellation status, you will seldom, if ever, see the word “Beaujolais” anywhere on the label. “Red Burgundy Wine” occasionally appears in small print.

The word from France and career wine journalists, is that the 2009 Beaujolais vintage is quite special, if not spectacular. Georges Duboeuf proclaimed it the “Vintage of his lifetime.” He describes the Crus as, “Opulent, exceptionally full bodied and fabulous.” I have sampled many of them and tend to agree that they are something special—well balanced, nicely structured, age-worthy wines. They are not confected, steroid versions of Nouveau. Lastly, if your wine preference leans toward high alcohol, sledgehammer reds that are as dense as Port and nearly as viscous, the Beaujolais Crus are not for you. If, however, you yearn for a $15 to $30 wine that’s easy on the palate and pairs well with food, definitely consider pairing one of “Burgundy’s Other Red Wines” with your next roast beef recipe.

– Tom Barras

www.TomBarrasWineCommentary.blogspot.com/