It’s that time of year. Short, cool days and long, chilly nights. I dislike it for a number of reasons. The weather primarily. There’s not enough sunshine, and green algae are sprouting on my barbecue bricks like outer space slime. Barbecuing holds no interest because there’s powdery mold on the briquettes, and there’s no more starter fuel. The golf courses are cold and uninviting, and it seems like I’m hitting rocks instead of golf balls. And the white wines lack important qualities like intense color, full body and serious, mouth-filling flavors.

Ah, but it’s wintertime. And I like it for many reasons. The weather primarily. It’s brisk and invigorating, especially on those quick morning walks. The sun is oblique and doesn’t jump into my face. In the evening I light my fireplace, mold into my easy chair, sip a Manhattan on the rocks, and search for truths in the flickering flames. At dinner it’s time for good old-fashioned comfort food, like meaty stews, hearty pot roasts, wine and broth braised chicken.

And being a wine kinda guy, I know it’s time to pair those dishes with the perfect cold weather wine, the type that slides down nice and easy and doesn’t require cerebral discussion to appreciate. A comfort wine. I won’t reach for that brawny Cabernet. I’ll pass on that slick Merlot as well as that smooth, aromatic Pinot Noir. And while a brambly California Zinfandel would work, I’m proposing a different wine, from a low-visibility French Appellation.

I’m referring to those user-friendly red “comfort wines” from the Southern Rhone appellation of Côtes du Rhône, which are near the more famous appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Wine snobs may scoff at these wines, because, the mélange of grapes — Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, Syrah, and Mourvdre — from which they’re primarily made, don’t generate a strong, recognizable aromatic profile like, say, a Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir do. But if drinking, rather than sniffing, is your priority then these wines will do you fine.

The reds of Côtes du Rhône are noted for their soft, round character. They are dark, ripe and full bodied, with hints of red and black fruits, and they’re the ideal mate for the multitude of flavors in stews and braises. Given their quality range, they’re very good values, with most usually selling in the $10 to $20 range. Some of the better known producers I have enjoyed over the years are Perrin & Fils, Guigal, St. Cosme, Santa Duc, Vidal Fleury and Jaboulet. If after sampling the basic appellation, you yearn for a bit more class and complexity, then move up to the Côtes du Rhône – Villages appellation, or to a specifically name village like Gigondas, Rasteau or Seguret. In any case, you’re sure to find one that satisfies your palate.

– Tom Barras